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Maintaining coats between grooms
Regular professional grooming is essential for most long haired and double coated dogs, but they also require maintenance at home to stay healthy, comfortable, and to avoid getting shaved down. Different coats have different needs. My clients are always welcome to get in touch for individual advice on the techniques and tools I use for their dog, but these are some general products and methods that will be applicable to most dogs. Any product recommendations I give are in no way sponsored or incentivized by anything other than my own professional opinion.
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Know thy enemy: a crash course on matting
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What is matting?
Broadly speaking, "matting" refers to a condition where hair gets so tightly tangled it cannot be brushed out without causing the dog pain or serious discomfort and significant coat damage. Once a mat forms, it will quickly get tighter and tighter with movement and moisture. Light matting that is not tight to the skin is generally a mild annoyance to the dog, however once it gets tighter, it can start painfully pulling on the skin. In severe cases, matting can pull so hard that it can cause bruising and tears in the skin! Imagine having your body hair firmly stuck to a piece of duct tape that's being pulled on 24/7. Ouch! I plan to add photos of mats of various severities on a variety of coats here soon.
In most cases, all but the lightest matting will need to be shaved out of the coat, often affecting the cosmetics of the groom. I have top of the line tools and products, years of experience, and the ability to take some extra time to gently attempt to detangle small sections of matting, but I will never cause an animal pain for cosmetics.
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What causes matting, and how can we avoid it?
Matting begins with tangles. Simply by moving around, dogs' hair will start to tangle up, just like humans'. Friction between body parts or harnesses and collars will significantly accelerate this. Areas like joints, the base of the tail, and crevices between bones and tendons in the legs are higher risk for this reason. Most people have had experience with those firm lumps of hair behind their dogs' ears!
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Mats also love water. If you've ever shrunk a sweater in the drier, you'll understand! Make sure to thoroughly brush your dog before giving them baths or letting them play in the water, and afterwards once they've dried.
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Different coats will be more prone to matting than others. The healthier, more wiry, coarse, or tightly coiled dogs' coats are, the more resistant they are to tangles. Conversely, damaged and dry, softer, finer hair with loose curls or waves will mat quickly. Shedding will make matting worse as the loose hair will be trapped in the curls or tangles and prevented from falling free, adding more mass to the forming mat. Naturally, length plays a significant factor as well. Most coats kept 3/8ths of an inch (give or take based on the aforementioned factors) long or less will only require occasional checks in high friction areas, whereas longer coats will need thorough brushing from nose to tail regularly.
Special considerations: Doodles and -poos
Poodle mixes have some of the highest maintenance coats of any dog and will need nose to tail brushing several times a week, sometimes daily for particularly long or soft coats. Because most "doodle" breeders prioritize softness and fluffiness over coat health, and because they are often crosses with heavy shedding dogs (most frequently golden retrievers, labradors, Burmese mountain dogs, etc.), they mat extremely easily and quickly. Unfortunately, many people are simply cashing in on the current doodle fad and will deceptively claim that their dogs are low maintenance and don't shed to make a quick sale.
Products, tools, and techniques
Brushes and combs
Whether your dog is matting or shedding heavily, in the vast majority of cases a slicker brush followed by a metal comb will be your friend. Start with the slicker to gently loosen up tangles, then use the coarse end of the comb to check your work. Anywhere the comb catches, return with the slicker. I plan to put a video demonstrating proper brushing technique on this page in the future, but in the meantime, searching "line brushing" elsewhere will give you an idea of how to work with these tools.
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Many people are concerned about the comfort of slicker brushes and look for options with small plastic beads on the end of the bristles. These wider beads prevent the brush from penetrating deeper into tangles. With correct technique, your dog should not feel meaningful discomfort. If your dog is very distressed by properly done brushing, taking their coat short to minimize the need for brushing is the ethical choice.
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I use and highly recommend Andis slicker brushes. They are built to last, come in a range of sizes and lengths, and are quite affordable. One of their many options can be found here. The longer the hair, the longer wires you'll want. Smaller brushes are easier to use on smaller dogs, larger ones will cover more area more quickly. I do not recommend brushes with built in bristle clearing functions as they tend to break much more quickly and are redundant with the essential metal comb, which you can simply rake through the slicker to clear it.
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For those with a higher budget, Chris Christensen's long pin slickers are top of the line. I find them most useful for extremely challenging coats longer than 3 inches. Short of that, I wouldn't recommend shelling out for this brush for home use. It can be found here.
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Metal combs like this one help you check your brushing work. There's no need to splurge on a metal comb, there's not a significant difference between them for home use.
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Coat treatments
Dogs' hair can be damaged by essential regular brushing on a dry coat, and damaged hair mats more easily, leading to a vicious cycle. Leave in conditioners or sprays can help reduce the damage and help hair slip free of tangles more gently and easily. I have used and would recommend all of the following products; if you would like recommendations on which to use for your dog's coat, feel free to ask at pick up!
-Bark 2 Basics D-Mat leave in conditioner (diluted 2:1 water to conditioner, unscented and scented available)
-Show Sheen Hair Polish and Detangler (yes, the one marketed for horses! Very minimal scent)
-The Stuff (unscented, dilute for frequent use, excellent product but can cause waxy build up with overuse)
-Stazko Conditioning Spray (has a strong powder scent)
-CHI for Dogs (has a moderately strong almost human cosmetic scent)
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Shampoos and bath time conditioning treatments
I use a wide range of bath products that vary based on skin and coat needs. I am always happy to share the product combinations I've used and recommend for your dog at home, just ask at pick up!
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